Gemstone Earrings

Which gemstones hold up best in earrings?

Sapphire and ruby are the hardiest picks, rated 9 on the Mohs scale, just below diamond. That makes them a safe bet for a pair you plan to wear every day, through commutes, workouts and the odd knock against a car door. Emerald sits lower, at about 7.5 to 8, and it can chip if struck at the wrong angle. Earrings take far fewer hits than rings, which is good news for emerald lovers, but it still makes sense to save an emerald pair for days when you are not hauling bags or playing sports.

If you want the same color story on your wrist, gemstone bracelets follow the same rules: harder stones for daily wear, softer ones for occasions.

Gemstone studs as a daily dose of color

A stud is the easiest way to wear a colored stone, because it sits close to the lobe and keeps the gem out of harm's way. A deep blue or red stud adds personality to a plain outfit without needing a statement necklace to match. Studs also make a thoughtful gift when you are not sure about the recipient's taste, since a small spot of color is easy to wear with almost anything. If you are weighing color against clear diamonds, look across the full earring range before you decide.

Settings that protect a colored stone

A bezel offers the most protection: a thin rim of metal circles the whole stone, so its edge never takes a direct blow. That is the setting to look for on emerald, or on any pair that will be worn hard. Prongs show more of the gem and let in more light, which brings out color and sparkle, and they suit sapphire and ruby well. Four prongs leave the most stone visible; six prongs hold it more securely. Whichever you choose, a screw back is the safest way to keep a valued stud in place.

Mixing colored stones with diamonds

Colored stones and diamonds work best together when one leads and the other supports. A halo of small diamonds around a gem frames the color and makes the center look larger, so a modest gem reads bigger from across a room. If you already own diamond studs, a pair in sapphire or ruby gives you a second look rather than a near copy. And if you fall for a particular gem, you can carry the color into a ring through gemstone ring settings, keeping the same hardness rules in mind for a piece worn on the hand.