Choose it for peace of mind. Wrapping the stone in metal is the most protective way to hold a diamond, because the metal guards the girdle, the thin outer edge where a stone is most likely to chip if it takes a hard knock. That makes bezel set diamond necklaces a practical pick for busy days, travel, or anyone who forgets to take jewelry off.
It also gives a cleaner outline. Without prongs, the diamond reads as a neat disc of light framed in metal, which looks right with a T shirt and with a dress.
Prongs are tiny hooks, and anything soft finds them: long hair, scarves, the inside of a sweater. A smooth rim has nothing to hook, so it glides over fabric and lies comfortably against skin.
This matters more on a necklace than people expect. A pendant shifts all day as you move, turn your head and pull clothes on and off. With no snagging, there is no sudden tug on the chain either, which spares the clasp and the links.
That collar of metal is not indestructible. A hard enough knock can dent it, though a jeweler can usually reshape a dented rim. Give it a quick look now and then to make sure it still sits tight.
The metal around the stone becomes part of the design, so its color matters. A yellow or rose gold rim adds warmth and hides a slightly warmer diamond well, which means a near colorless stone looks bright inside it. A white gold or platinum rim reads crisp and cool but shows any warmth in the diamond more, so choose a whiter stone there.
Shape matters too. Metal can follow any outline, which makes this setting a good home for pear and marquise diamonds, whose points are the most fragile part of those shapes.
These pieces look best with each other. A single bezel pendant pairs neatly with matching studs or a line of bezel bracelets. A station necklace, with several framed diamonds spaced along the chain, adds sparkle without the weight of a full line.
For more single-diamond designs in this style, see our diamond necklaces set in bezels, and if you like the look enough to want it on your hand, browse bezel ring settings.